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Her debut with the style magazine featured dresses from her Spring/Summer 1995 collection inspired by period pulp comics and the puffed sleeve, square shouldered, floral dress fashion popular during the war rationing years of 1940's era fashion.1997 marked one of the pivotal years in the emergence of Sui onto the world stage.Sui was one of the few designers of the period who distanced herself from the traditional fashion houses and explored the grunge fashion scene together with designers such as Marc Jacobs, Daryl K and Todd Oldham.In around 1987, Sui got the opportunity to move her line into Annette B, a showroom curated by Annette Breindel.Breindel, who had a history of nurturing young designers, was a major influence for Sui and helped the designer emerge onto the fashion scene.
Through this process, Sui learned the basics of making clothing and soon she was putting together her own outfits.
The mannequins were based on the measurements of actress Michele Hicks and would later form the inspiration for Sui's first diffusion brand, Dolly Girl.
Japanese magazine Spur featured a portrait of Sofia Coppola in one of Sui's 1997 Fall/Winter dresses complete with a beaded devil horn headband in its October edition.
Sui credits reading this article as a pivotal moment in her youth, which gave her clear direction on her goals for her future.
The manager at Glenora, where Sui was still on the payroll, was furious when he saw the advertisement in The Times and fired her on the spot.
Left without a job, Sui took her $300 in savings and started a business out of a little corner of the living room in her apartment.